Saturday, November 17, 2007

From Albuquerque

We left Las Vegas Tuesday morning and before long I realized that I wasn't going to be able to bike over a mountain pass after being sick for so many days. We called Matt's mom, who was able to come pick us up and take us to Albuquerque early. We only had about 110 miles to go, which we are hoping to pick back up again next week. But we did get 850 miles in, and we're proud of it. As for my health, I am finally feeling back to normal, although I haven't gotten back on the bike yet. Perhaps today I'll try it.

Heifer Project threw us a reception Wednesday night in Albuquerque, and it was really great to meet Maria (Heifer's coordinator for this whole region) and the volunteers from the area. It really brought the trip together, and we were very touched! We ate at the Flying Star downtown, learned about the projects Heifer has going on in this region, and shared some pictures and stories from our trip. They presented us with Heifer Project volunteer shirts, a children's book about Heifer Project, and a canvas tote bag. We were able to present a check with the monetary donations we've raised so far (almost $1200).












The group at the Flying Star


















Matthew, Maria, and I

Monday, November 12, 2007

Springer to Las Vegas, NM













Wagon Mound from the south












10 miles outside Wagon Mound and we could still see it. It felt like we were going nowhere, with all the climbing and the unencumbered views, and with no grain elevators to tell us how close we were to the next town.












Ft Union Ranch (where the two routes of the Santa Fe trail reunited.)












Unfortunately, we didn't realize we had already passed the entrance and it would have been 8 miles back uphill.












Sunset outside Las Vegas (right before Uncle Bob picked us up - don't worry, we weren't biking after sunset...)













Eating at Dick's Restaurant in Las Vegas - my Uncle Bob and Aunt Elise are on the left, and Matthew and I are on the right. Matt looks a little scared in this one!

Update from Las Vegas













The two routes not too far from here.












Drugstore and soda fountain in Springer.
















Pronghorn antelope












10 miles before Wagon Mound - you can see it off in the distance. This was when the frontage road was still quite beautiful.

It's Monday night, and we're packing our clean laundry for tomorrow. I think I got some stomach bug or food poisoning our first night here and I felt weak and slept most of the last two days. Today I feel remarkably better, though, and we will be leaving in the morning and heading for Santa Fe, some 70 miles and a mountain pass away. From there it is only another day's ride into Albuquerque - I can't believe we're this close!

Saturday, November 10, 2007

Recovery

I wasn't kidding about the trek from Springer to Las Vegas being the hardest yet. As proof, Heidi is now unwell. She caught some kind of bug and now isn't feeling so well. So, for the time being we are putting the trip on hold. Las Vegas was the historic stopping place for many along the Santa Fe Trail. In the past there were trademeets here. The fur trappers, traders, pioneers and suchlike would come down to Las Vegas once a year or so and live it up. So, that's exactly what we're doing. In a very relaxed way.

Cheers,

Matthew

Springer to Las Vegas: The Longest Day

11-9-07: Springer to Vegas (70 miles)....today was the longest (though not in miles) and hardest and slowest day yet. We left Springer at about 8:45am. It's about the second earliest that we have started. We had a restful night inside a local motel. The only campground was five miles north and right next to a prison. So, we stayed inside. After a good rest and an early rise and we were ready to head to Las Vegas.

I watched the news at 6:30am and found that there was a slight breeze from the north. "Yeah", I thought, "we're heading south. Looks like an easy day". I could not have been more wrong. The day started out easy enough. There was a slight breeze from the north, the sun was shining and we were ready to ride.

Approximately six miles later we had changed our tune. The first five miles were easy. All were down hill. The trouble is that every time that you go down a hill, you must now ride uphill. And Las Vegas is 600 feet above Springer in elevation. Ah, joy. So, after about a 300 or 400 feet drop, we began our climb into Las Vegas....at eight miles an hour. We were very fortunate in that we had a tailwind for about five miles. We were unfortunate in that our tailwind became a strong front wind at about the same time as our downhill became an uphill.

About 27 miles later we stopped in Wagon Mound, a little town that is named for a beautiful landmark that looks (if only vaguely) like a covered wagon. We stopped at a c-store and ate snickers bars, salt and vinegar chips, burritos and PB&J. After about 6000 calories we were off. And things got worse.

The climbing intensified. As did the wind. Nevertheless, we continued into the foray and bravely pushed forward. The rolling hills continued upward, and the wind continued to push us back. A continued eight miles an hour saw us up many a hill, and the wind pushed so hard that our downhills didn't feel like downhills. Push, push and more pushing.

We ran out of back roads after about 47 miles or so, and had to join the interstate. That's I-25 folks, and filled with hundreds and thousands of cars. In the first 45 miles we saw 23 cars. We didn't even try to count the cars on I-25. We spent about 1o miles on I-25 before the sun went down. At this point we yielded to reality and called Uncle Bob to come and pick us up. So, we had a car ride for about 16 miles...really not so bad considering that we had ridden 800+ miles so far.

So this is the hardest day that we had so far, and it will probably be the most rewarding we have.

Matthew

Thursday, November 8, 2007

Springer and the end of our beloved highway 56













Mile marker number one on our beloved Highway 56. It ended after following it almost the entire trip (over 750 miles so far.) It was lovely - little traffic, terrific people, and beautiful scenery the whole way.












The Santa Fe museum here in Springer - we might try to visit it later today.

Last stretch into Springer













A landmark on the Santa Fe trail












It was amazing - we could finally see the whole mountain range. There was even snow on a few in the distance.












A mesa and mountains, and most importantly, a downhill.












Apparently I am not a real person.

Since Clayton
After posting at the library in Clayton, we went in search of a coffee shop, not really expecting to find anything. Much to our surprise, we found one, Cornerstone Coffee, and the owners, Roger and Rebecca, invited us to their house for the night. Roger used to compete in some amateur cycling races, and they opened up the coffee shop just a few months ago. We enjoyed a great evening at their house, slept well, and got our laundry done! We went by the coffee shop in the morning to eat breakfast and say bye, and then took off for Springer, 83 miles away.

Matt got a flat tire 11 miles outside of town, and the going was slow as we were climbing most of the day. We got to the Gladstone Mercantile about two hours before sunset, but knew there was no way we could make it to Springer before dark, so we got permission to camp there and spent most of the afternoon eating and chatting with the owners. We could hear coyotes and some strange bird throughout the night, but slept well. As we packed up to leave, Matt realized his rear tire was flat again, and we changed it and patched the hole. We climbed for about 10 miles outside of Gladstone, and then rolling hills started again. Matt got another flat (a shard of glass this time) right at the "View of the Rockies" marker, elevation 6300 feet. He patched the hole and we kept going, enjoying the expansive views of the mountains and the perfect weather. The wind wasn't nearly as strong today, so we got into Springer about 2 pm. We're looking for camping options now.

Gladstone Mercantile













The Gladstone Mercantile - thank God they were open and had water. There was nothing else in between Clayton and Springer, and it was a lot more climbing than we expected. They let us camp outside.












Sunset












Inside the Gladstone Mercantile












The mountains in the distance

The road from Clayton to Springer













Rabbit Ears Mountain












Changing a flat tire on the side of the road












Capulin Volcano in the distance












It was exciting to see Las Vegas on a mileage sign

Clayton, New Mexico













Cute downtown Clayton at sunset












Rebecca and Roger, our hosts in Clayton, hard at work in their very cute coffeeshop, Cornerstone Coffee.












Roger and Rebecca












The mountain right outside town

Tuesday, November 6, 2007

Oklahoma and New Mexico













The county Boise City, Oklahoma is in is the least populated in the state. There was quiet literally nothing there.












23 miles from Clayton in Oklahoma right outside the National Grasslands. You can see the mountain (Rabbit Ears, I think) in the distance to the right of the sign.












Matt with arms raised victoriously at the New Mexico border.












Our second state line yesterday - posing by the barely readable "Welcome to New Mexico" sign.
Texas was only a few miles away, but we didn't cross into it.

More from Kansas and into Oklahoma













We talked with an elderly gentleman here who started the conversation by pulling out a "trillion" dollar bill. He proceeded to tell us about the hunters and how when he was growing up in Arkansas they would eat the whole squirrel, brains and all, and how he would use skunk fur to keep his chest warm under his coat in the winter time. You really meet some interesting people bike touring.












Grain elevator (?) with interesting paint job












Elkhart, Kansas












And into Oklahoma (right before flat #2)

More photos from Kansas
















Horses along the road















Giant feedlots in the distance














Cotton all baled up

From Montezuma, Kansas to Clayton, New Mexico

flatAs we mentioned before, the ride from Larned to Montezuma was almost 93 miles. We were pretty proud of it, even if it was necessitated by the lack of campgrounds in the area and a VERY strong tail wind. We slept in the next morning in Montezuma, and then spent a leisurely morning exploring the town and talking with Maurice, an RV'er in our campground who brewed us a fresh pot of coffee and came over to talk. We also visited the Stauth museum, an eclectic little place dedicated to the Stauths, a couple who spent most of their adult life traveling around the world. They took 95 international trips and brought back souvenirs and artifacts from each place. It was interesting, and very nicely put together, with displays reminiscent of the ones at the Kauffman Museum in North Newton.

We didn't leave Montezuma till 1 pm, and the head-wind had picked up quite a bit by then, so we ended up only biking 25 miles or so into Sublette, where we were able to do laundry (yay!) and go bowling. It was a nice little break, even if those 25 miles felt almost harder than the 93 the day before! From Sublette we took advantage of the extra hour of morning sunlight and left early, enjoying the BEAUTIFUL and unseasonably warm temperatures and lack of wind. We had a fun ride into Satanta, Hugoton, Rolla and into Elkhart, and arrived in Elkhart in the early evening after I got a flat on one of the last hills into town. For such a small town, Elkhart has a lot going for it - very nice city parks and a helpful police department that gave us permission to camp beside the town swimming pool, a new biking and hiking trail near the highway, and very helpful and friendly librarians. I was excited. The cold front that was supposed to move in didn't seem to, and we woke up pleasantly surprised by the lack of frost on the tent!

Unfortunately, on our way out of the park and over to the gas station, I noticed my rear tire was flat. And thus began the day where many things went wrong. I couldn't find a thorn, and my flat the day before had been a valve stem flat, so I just replaced the tube and packed the old one away to patch later on. Then, after breakfast and an hour at the library, we pulled out of town when Matt realized he had a flat tire on his front tire due to thorns. We changed it in a parking lot of a tractor company and got some water inside before continuing on into Oklahoma (first state line - yay!) The weather was beautiful and warm and the wind at our backs so we were flying along... till Matt got another flat tire (this time on the rear) outside of the next town. It was a thorn. He patched it and replaced the tube and then the tube burst. Our ears were still ringing from the blowout when we rolled on.

We made it to Boise City, Oklahoma by the early afternoon and after eating some lunch, decided to continue on to Clayton, New Mexico, another 43 miles away, because we found out the wind would be changing and we didn't want to deal with the strong headwinds that were predicted across the Oklahoma grasslands. We flew along on 56 with very little traffic, inspired by the National Grasslands we were passing through, and the distant slope of the mountains. After taking the requisite photos at the New Mexico border, we realized it was getting closer to sunset and tried to book the last 9 miles into Clayton. We had climbed almost 2,000 feet over the last 75 miles, and there were a few hundred more to climb in the hills right outside town. An older couple on Schwinn bicycles were pedaling home to Clayton on the other side of the road, and we chatted with them awhile as we pedaled up hill. Then a few miles later, they passed us as we stopped to put on coats and turn on our flashers. We passed them again on the next uphill, and then right after I passed Matthew on the steepest climb yet, we realized he had another flat tire. No real surprise considering the plethora of thorns, glass, barbed wire and other wicked tire-puncturing things on the shoulder of the roads the past few days. It was getting darker, so we walked the last half-mile into town so that we could change the flat under a street lamp. So four flats, a blowout, two state lines and 87 miles later, we made it to Clayton.

We couldn't find the state lake that was supposedly right outside of town, and it was cold and dark, so we got a cheap motel room on the outskirts of town and watched movies on cable TV till we fell asleep. We found out today that park is 13 miles out of town, but we got permission to camp in the city park, so we'll be there tonight instead. We're taking a much needed rest day today and letting the strong winds pass through as we read and enjoy the Pizza Hut lunch buffet. I was hoping to upload some photos, but so far I haven't been able to on the library's computer. We'll continue on toward Springer tomorrow on Highway 56 and then turn south to Las Vegas, NM soon!

heidi

Monday, November 5, 2007

Montezuma and onward
















Stauth Museum















Trips the Stauth's took - 95 of them















Bowling in Sublette














Depressing western Kansas views of feedlots and homes across the street

Larned to Montezuma















Kinsley, KS - halfway across the US















You can see these grain elevators for miles and miles and miles...















Matt riding into the sunset















RV park in Montezuma
















92.61 miles from Larned to Montezuma - I almost wanted to bike 7 more to break 100 but it was getting dark outside.